FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS:
Chickens
Some of this information is our own opinions, formed From our experiences. It is only provided for your self education, to take away what you wish. THERE ARE MANY EMBEDDED LINKS TO FURTHER RESEARCH THE TOPICS. More information will be added as time allows. Please use the Contact page to ask for material you would like to see covered. Thank you for your patience.
Last updated 1/4/2022
Why Salmon Faverolles?
Salmon Faverolles Rooster from
The Livestock Conservancy
We've had several breeds over the years, and there are so many gorgeous chickens to choose from, but Faverolles are truly unique. Not only are they listed as "Threatened" on The Livestock Conservancy Priority List, they come in a rare Salmon shade only found on Faverolles. They have a fluffy muff, beard, and feathered five-toed feet, a rarity to have all in one bird.
We chose Salmon Faverolles for their well known sweet disposition that makes them a great addition to a backyard flock and as pets for children.
They're hardy and can handle cold weather with reasonable accommodation. Faverolles hens lay well, since they were initially bred to lay all Winter for the Paris Market. A dual purpose bird, with meat favored by chefs for exceptional tenderness, is efficient for the homestead. This particular variety is also easy to sex early by feather coloring so we will be offering Pullet chicks and replacement layers for your own flock.
We chose Salmon Faverolles for their well known sweet disposition that makes them a great addition to a backyard flock and as pets for children.
They're hardy and can handle cold weather with reasonable accommodation. Faverolles hens lay well, since they were initially bred to lay all Winter for the Paris Market. A dual purpose bird, with meat favored by chefs for exceptional tenderness, is efficient for the homestead. This particular variety is also easy to sex early by feather coloring so we will be offering Pullet chicks and replacement layers for your own flock.
WHAT IS THE NPIP and why is it important?
As buyers we've always been careful about sourcing our birds from reputable National Poultry Improvement Plan (NPIP) breeders.
We've heard stories of people being given chickens and never had a problem. But, that one time you're given a chick that unbeknownst to you is infested with lice, then it dies, you remember why you shouldn't get chicks from just anywhere. Diseases, lice and mites are easily spread and hard to be rid of.
Our bloodlines were sourced from across the United States from NPIP participant breeders. Our flock has undergone testing for NPIP and Avian Influenza. As part of the NPIP annual recertification our birds and their living areas are inspected by an Idaho State Department of Agriculture Veterinarian. Additionally, the state vet visits bi-annually for Avian Influenza testing.
We've heard stories of people being given chickens and never had a problem. But, that one time you're given a chick that unbeknownst to you is infested with lice, then it dies, you remember why you shouldn't get chicks from just anywhere. Diseases, lice and mites are easily spread and hard to be rid of.
Our bloodlines were sourced from across the United States from NPIP participant breeders. Our flock has undergone testing for NPIP and Avian Influenza. As part of the NPIP annual recertification our birds and their living areas are inspected by an Idaho State Department of Agriculture Veterinarian. Additionally, the state vet visits bi-annually for Avian Influenza testing.
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What came first, the chicken or the egg? Healthy chickens start as healthy chicks, and they start as healthy eggs from healthy hens. We feed our flock non-GMO Mega Layer feed and Scratch Grains from Wood's Hay & Grain in Ponderay, Idaho. We feed lots of fresh kitchen scraps, fruits, vegetables, oatmeal, and occasionally, Probios probiotics, extra calcium, loose trace minerals, kelp, or ground flax meal.
What is the APA?
The American Poultry Association is the authority on breed Standard characteristics. They promote and protect standard bred poultry at all levels and publish the book, American Standard of Perfection, with the breed and variety descriptions for all the recognized purebred fowl. They assist, encourage, support, and sanction poultry shows all over the USA and Canada as a means of sharing purebred poultry with the public and interest future breeders. The Association licenses poultry show Judges.
APA Members earn points at shows towards becoming a Master Exhibitor, as well as other awards. The Master Exhibitor and Hall of Fame Exhibitor programs showcase exhibitors who excel at showing throughout the years.
The APA publishes a quarterly newsletter and Annual Yearbook. The list of Master Exhibitors, members, APA licensed Judges, Hall of Fame Exhibitors, and more, can be found in the Yearbook.
North Woods Homestead, LLC, believes in and supports the efforts of the APA as Members in good standing. Our Salmon Faverolles are being bred to the APA Standard of Perfection. An APA Hall of Fame Exhibitor, Judge, and Breeder helped us cull our foundation stock and was hands-on in the selection of our breeding flock.
If you want to join you can learn more here:
APA Members earn points at shows towards becoming a Master Exhibitor, as well as other awards. The Master Exhibitor and Hall of Fame Exhibitor programs showcase exhibitors who excel at showing throughout the years.
The APA publishes a quarterly newsletter and Annual Yearbook. The list of Master Exhibitors, members, APA licensed Judges, Hall of Fame Exhibitors, and more, can be found in the Yearbook.
North Woods Homestead, LLC, believes in and supports the efforts of the APA as Members in good standing. Our Salmon Faverolles are being bred to the APA Standard of Perfection. An APA Hall of Fame Exhibitor, Judge, and Breeder helped us cull our foundation stock and was hands-on in the selection of our breeding flock.
If you want to join you can learn more here:
What is NPIP and is it IMPORTANT?
The purpose of the National Poultry Improvement Plan (NPIP) is to ensure the health of avian flocks. The NPIP is a state and federal program that was established with the intent of eliminating Pullorum disease. The program now includes the testing and monitoring of Salmonella typhoid, Salmonella enteritidis, Mycoplasma gallisepticum, Mycoplasma synoviae, Mycoplasma meleagridis and Avian Influenza. Commercial poultry production, backyard breeders, show birds, domesticated waterfowl and game birds are included.
Nationwide sales and interstate transport of adult birds, chicks and hatching eggs requires NPIP certification. Shipments are documented with a VS Form 9-3. Annual Pullorum Typhoid (PT) testing completed for purposes of the NPIP program also fulfills poultry show and county/state fairs exhibition requirements. The standardized certification is recognized nationwide.
Our flock is recognized as a participating member of the NPIP. The Idaho State Department of Agriculture is the coordinating agency for the state of Idaho. A phone call to schedule a testing date, a couple supplies, including antigen, and minimal paperwork got it accomplished. An annual inspection and testing for Salmonella Pullorum Typhoid, along with records of poultry purchases and sales, keeps us in good standing.
Participants can also have their flock tested for Avian Influenza (AI). This free testing is completed by an ISDA field representative. Our flock is tested and “AI Clean”.
The National NPIP website lists all hatcheries, dealers, and independent flocks in the United States for those who wish to purchase poultry from an NPIP source.
Nationwide sales and interstate transport of adult birds, chicks and hatching eggs requires NPIP certification. Shipments are documented with a VS Form 9-3. Annual Pullorum Typhoid (PT) testing completed for purposes of the NPIP program also fulfills poultry show and county/state fairs exhibition requirements. The standardized certification is recognized nationwide.
Our flock is recognized as a participating member of the NPIP. The Idaho State Department of Agriculture is the coordinating agency for the state of Idaho. A phone call to schedule a testing date, a couple supplies, including antigen, and minimal paperwork got it accomplished. An annual inspection and testing for Salmonella Pullorum Typhoid, along with records of poultry purchases and sales, keeps us in good standing.
Participants can also have their flock tested for Avian Influenza (AI). This free testing is completed by an ISDA field representative. Our flock is tested and “AI Clean”.
The National NPIP website lists all hatcheries, dealers, and independent flocks in the United States for those who wish to purchase poultry from an NPIP source.
Are you ready for Chickens?
There's a lot to consider when adding animals to your life. Who will care for them when you're sick or away from home? What are their needs? Chickens take about 6 months to lay then production drops off after 3 years. What will you do with old hens? Do you want to keep a rooster? What if he gets mean?
Why would you eat a Threatened Chicken Species?
Consider this, why would you save a chicken breed from extinction? A threatened breed is likely to be saved because they lay well in certain conditions, have a special plumage, certain unique traits, or make a good meal. Why would a breed be worth saving if they weren't exceptional in some way, if they hardly lay or have tasteless meat? To preserve a breed you want to mate the best of the best to retain the best representation of the breed. Those that don't meet the standards are then culled. The best use of most culled birds is to make a fine meal.
How many eggs does a hen lay in a year?
A hen will ovulate and lay several eggs a week with or without a rooster in your flock. She will lay about every 26 hours. How many eggs she lays depends on her age and breed. Its typical for a full size breed, like a Rhode Island Red or Plymouth Rock, to lay 4-6 eggs a week. A miniature breed Bantam hen may only lay 1-3 eggs a week. Chickens lay well the first two years but their production drops off after that. They can lay right up until the end of their lifespan, about 8-10 years typically.
Be sure to provide adequate nesting boxes for the size of your flock, about one for every four hens.
Be sure to provide adequate nesting boxes for the size of your flock, about one for every four hens.
Is it true you can store farm fresh eggs on The
counter, without REFRIGERATION?
In short, YES! Eggs are laid with a natural protective coating called Bloom. If you don't wash it off fresh eggs can sit on your counter, pointy end down, for a couple weeks. As soon as they're washed they must be refrigerated.
Eggs with the Bloom washed off won't have a good hatch rate, incidentally. We wash all our farm fresh eggs for sales. At home, we store them in these vintage 1960's Tomado brand racks from Holland that I found on Etsy.
Eggs with the Bloom washed off won't have a good hatch rate, incidentally. We wash all our farm fresh eggs for sales. At home, we store them in these vintage 1960's Tomado brand racks from Holland that I found on Etsy.
How do you use a surplus of eggs?
With eggs it's a matter of feast or famine. In the Spring the new Pullets start laying and we're flush with eggs. In the deep Winter when the days are short the chickens production slows, then stops altogether. You can add artificial light to keep production going. They need about 15 hours of light a day. It helps to plan ahead.
How do you break a Broody hen?
The prospect of more chicks can be exciting but sometimes she gets ambitious at the wrong time of year or without a rooster to fertilize her eggs. You'll know she's broody because if you try to move her off the eggs she'll fluff up, peck your hands, and act like her legs are broken. She'll complain the whole way back to the nest!
She will steal eggs as she builds her clutch then she will stop laying. To break her you need to take the eggs, remove the bedding, and destroy the nest. Remove her from the area and block her, if possible. If the weather is warm outside you can dip the hen's belly and chest in cold water a couple times a day. The cold is thought to switch off the instinct to nest. A frozen bottle of water under her may accomplish this too. If she still persists, put her in a dog crate for a couple days inside the coop or in a protected space, away from her previous nest.
We've had some success breaking a hen by switching her eggs overnight for newly hatched chicks.
She will steal eggs as she builds her clutch then she will stop laying. To break her you need to take the eggs, remove the bedding, and destroy the nest. Remove her from the area and block her, if possible. If the weather is warm outside you can dip the hen's belly and chest in cold water a couple times a day. The cold is thought to switch off the instinct to nest. A frozen bottle of water under her may accomplish this too. If she still persists, put her in a dog crate for a couple days inside the coop or in a protected space, away from her previous nest.
We've had some success breaking a hen by switching her eggs overnight for newly hatched chicks.
How can I help a broody hen hatch her chicks?
The hen must be broody in order to hatch chicks. She has to stay on the clutch in her nest for at least 21 days. She will only leave once a day to eat, drink, and defecate. You may not even notice you sneak her break. Look around for one overly large chicken poop. We like to also leave her some water and food nearby.
If the other chickens are crowding her out you can tuck her and her clutch into a dog kennel. Be sure to leave her food and water.
We find a dog kennel with screen around the outside also keeps in the chicks once they hatch. A couple days to get stronger and mom will protect them out free-ranging in the yard.
If the other chickens are crowding her out you can tuck her and her clutch into a dog kennel. Be sure to leave her food and water.
We find a dog kennel with screen around the outside also keeps in the chicks once they hatch. A couple days to get stronger and mom will protect them out free-ranging in the yard.
How do you care for chicks?
A large cardboard box or metal water trough work well as a brooding area. A red-bulb heat lamp should be securely wired on one end. You want enough space in the brooder for them to move near or away from a heat lamp as needed. The brooder should be about 95 degrees fahrenheit. Reduce the temperature by 5 degrees weekly by raising the heat lamp.
Fresh water and finely ground Chick Starter feed should be offered 24/7.
It's very important that the flooring not be slippery. Chicks have poor leg muscle control and will develop Spraddle Legs on slick surfaces. Pine wood shavings work well for the early weeks.
Fresh water and finely ground Chick Starter feed should be offered 24/7.
It's very important that the flooring not be slippery. Chicks have poor leg muscle control and will develop Spraddle Legs on slick surfaces. Pine wood shavings work well for the early weeks.
How many chickens fit in a coop?
To keep the chickens from picking on each other they need enough space to roost and move around. Think how crabby you get when you're crowded in a small space for a long time. At least two to three feet of space on the coop floor and one foot per chicken on the roosting bar. You'll need about one nesting box per four hens. Allow at least double the space in the outside run if they aren't free-ranging.
A 6' x 6' coop is 36 square feet divided by 3' per chicken means you can keep 13 chickens at most. But, 36 square feet divided by 4' per chicken is 9 chickens in your coop and better!
A flock of nine would need 3 laying boxes and 9' of perch bar for roosting at night.
The outside run should then be 72 square feet minimum, about 8' x 9' or 6' x 12'.
A 6' x 6' coop is 36 square feet divided by 3' per chicken means you can keep 13 chickens at most. But, 36 square feet divided by 4' per chicken is 9 chickens in your coop and better!
A flock of nine would need 3 laying boxes and 9' of perch bar for roosting at night.
The outside run should then be 72 square feet minimum, about 8' x 9' or 6' x 12'.
What kind of bedding works best?
There are several options for floor and nest materials. Sand, straw, hay, dirt, pine shavings, grass clippings, shredded leaves, recycled paper, and hemp are popular choices. Dirt and sand work well in the outside run. Sand drains well and can be cleaned with a fine rake. Pine shavings and straw cushion eggs in the laying boxes. Hemp has amazing ability to absorb moisture. Grass and leaves are an inexpensive natural option.
Cedar shavings should never be used in chicken areas because the oils are toxic in concentration. Be careful about natural options like leaves and grass because they may contain heavy fertilizers and pesticides. Birds are much more sensitive to these things. Consider the canary in the mine.
Cedar shavings should never be used in chicken areas because the oils are toxic in concentration. Be careful about natural options like leaves and grass because they may contain heavy fertilizers and pesticides. Birds are much more sensitive to these things. Consider the canary in the mine.
What do chickens eat? Is there anything they can't eat?
A balanced mix of grains with enough protein, calcium, and fat is important to maintain a healthy flock. Just as our own needs change as we mature, a chicken's needs will change. Young chicks need a special blend to grow strong bones and feathers. Laying hens need more calcium to put good shells on the eggs they lay and protein and calcium to grow feathers after a molt.
Mealworms are a treat loaded with protein. Oatmeal, fruit, most vegetables, flax meal, pasta, split peas, frozen diced veggies, and kitchen scraps make great chicken snacks.
Onions, while not toxic, will flavor the eggs negatively. Most chickens won't eat citrus peelings which is a good thing since it's believed they weaken eggshells and reduce production. Feed bread, cereals, and pasta sparingly as these food have little nutritional value and can cause your chickens to become overweight. Dairy products and too much iceberg lettuce can cause diarrhea, so these should also be fed in moderation.
Many of the things that are unhealthy for you are unhealthy for your birds. Avoid feeding them sweet or salty snacks, coffee or liquor. Theobromine, found in chocolate, is also thought to be toxic for birds like it is for dogs. Dry Beans contain hemagglutinin, that acts like a poison in poultry.
Members of the nightshade family include potatoes, tomatoes, and eggplant. The Latin name for these plants is Solanaceae. This is because they contain a compound called solanine. This is toxic to chickens. The compound can be broken down if the plants are cooked however. So, any cooked potatoes or tomatoes are generally ok to give to your chickens.
The pit and peel of avocados contain persin and are unsafe because this has been associated with myocardial necrosis, which is where the heart stops working.
Mouldy food can cause illness and may be fatal. Overripe, wilted vegetables, or stale bread is all fine as long as mould is not present.
Apples are a great treat for everyone but the seeds contain cyanide which can kill your chickens. Just remove the seeds and the rest of the apple is safe.
If you allow your flock to forage in your garden you might not be aware that some plants are dangerous.
Mealworms are a treat loaded with protein. Oatmeal, fruit, most vegetables, flax meal, pasta, split peas, frozen diced veggies, and kitchen scraps make great chicken snacks.
Onions, while not toxic, will flavor the eggs negatively. Most chickens won't eat citrus peelings which is a good thing since it's believed they weaken eggshells and reduce production. Feed bread, cereals, and pasta sparingly as these food have little nutritional value and can cause your chickens to become overweight. Dairy products and too much iceberg lettuce can cause diarrhea, so these should also be fed in moderation.
Many of the things that are unhealthy for you are unhealthy for your birds. Avoid feeding them sweet or salty snacks, coffee or liquor. Theobromine, found in chocolate, is also thought to be toxic for birds like it is for dogs. Dry Beans contain hemagglutinin, that acts like a poison in poultry.
Members of the nightshade family include potatoes, tomatoes, and eggplant. The Latin name for these plants is Solanaceae. This is because they contain a compound called solanine. This is toxic to chickens. The compound can be broken down if the plants are cooked however. So, any cooked potatoes or tomatoes are generally ok to give to your chickens.
The pit and peel of avocados contain persin and are unsafe because this has been associated with myocardial necrosis, which is where the heart stops working.
Mouldy food can cause illness and may be fatal. Overripe, wilted vegetables, or stale bread is all fine as long as mould is not present.
Apples are a great treat for everyone but the seeds contain cyanide which can kill your chickens. Just remove the seeds and the rest of the apple is safe.
If you allow your flock to forage in your garden you might not be aware that some plants are dangerous.
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If you know of other dangers to poultry that are missing here please bring them to our attention so we can update this list.
Are there herbs I can use safely in the coop?
*Yes, a few of our favorites are Echinacea, Peppermint, Tanzy, and Elderberries. I'll expound on this very soon.
How do you help chickens deal with very cold or
very hot weather?
* More coming here soon!
Summer help:
Can roosters get along together?
We've frequently had several roosters and cockerels living together. It works best when they're raised together but they usually figure out a pecking order either way. To maintain a happy flock you'll want about 8 hens per rooster. With too many roosters per the hen population the hens will become worn and skittish from all the male attention.
Peepers like these can be used to keep the roosters or hens from picking on each other. They can see well enough but not straight forward to target an attack. You may be surprised to know we use these when we're so careful about gentle practices. We were hesitant! But, seeing the hens overworked was enough to convince us to try. It may slow them down but it will not stop breeding. It will keep the coop more harmonious, especially among the roosters.
Peepers like these can be used to keep the roosters or hens from picking on each other. They can see well enough but not straight forward to target an attack. You may be surprised to know we use these when we're so careful about gentle practices. We were hesitant! But, seeing the hens overworked was enough to convince us to try. It may slow them down but it will not stop breeding. It will keep the coop more harmonious, especially among the roosters.
Can chickens live with other poultry?
In the past we had kept a mixed flock of chickens, ducks, and Guinea Fowl. There are some considerations to manage. Ducks are very messy. Yes, we understood that but we had no idea what an issue it would create! They spill water, bathe in troughs, and projectile defecate.
Their natural body temperature is higher and they emit more moisture that can raise humidity in the coop. Bedding should be changed more frequently, though our Muscovy Ducks preferred sleeping outside over in the coop. We eventually lost most of them to predators and decided not to continue with them.
We currently keep Guinea Fowl. They rarely go in the coop and are very easy to keep. They eat what we throw them, forage efficiently, and in the Summer, keep down hornet, wasp, snake, and spider populations. Our Guineas are NPIP tested alongside our chickens.
Their natural body temperature is higher and they emit more moisture that can raise humidity in the coop. Bedding should be changed more frequently, though our Muscovy Ducks preferred sleeping outside over in the coop. We eventually lost most of them to predators and decided not to continue with them.
We currently keep Guinea Fowl. They rarely go in the coop and are very easy to keep. They eat what we throw them, forage efficiently, and in the Summer, keep down hornet, wasp, snake, and spider populations. Our Guineas are NPIP tested alongside our chickens.
How do new chickens get introduced to the flock?
* More on pecking order soon!
Will Chickens run away if Free-Ranged?
* In short, no, but more to come here!
What Pests can chickens get?
Chickens are effected by lice, fleas, and mites. Infested birds have scaly, scabby skin and discolored or ragged feathers.
Lice may vary in color but typically appear a rusty brownish red. Lice on poultry do not suck blood, but feed by nibbling or chewing dry skin, scales, feathers, or scabs on the skin.
Mites stay in crevices and in cracks in the coop. At night they crawl upon the birds to gain their only food source, the blood of the birds they infest. Since these mites rarely stay on the birds during the daytime, a flock may be badly run down without the owner being aware of the issue. In cases of heavy infestations, the birds become droopy, pale about the head, and listless. They may stop laying.
Treatment is required to break the breeding cycle of the pests. Removal of bedding, far from the range of the chickens to prevent reinfestation, then a spray like pyrethrin or permethrin behind laying boxes, in the cracks of the floor and walls, around window frames, in the seems of roosting bars and roofing, and every square inch between. Fresh bedding is added. You can apply a powdered permethrin like Insectrin Dust to the fresh bedding. Lastly, you'll want to powder the birds themselves. Wear a layer of clothing over your skin, gloves and a mask. Repeat the application weekly for a total of 3 times.
I also walk the property and spray common areas the chickens free-range and congregate. We have wild turkeys so we spray as a preventative measure.
You can use Diatomacious Earth but it doesn't work as quickly or on every type of pest. It works on soft bodied bugs, not those with an exoskeleton.
Lice may vary in color but typically appear a rusty brownish red. Lice on poultry do not suck blood, but feed by nibbling or chewing dry skin, scales, feathers, or scabs on the skin.
Mites stay in crevices and in cracks in the coop. At night they crawl upon the birds to gain their only food source, the blood of the birds they infest. Since these mites rarely stay on the birds during the daytime, a flock may be badly run down without the owner being aware of the issue. In cases of heavy infestations, the birds become droopy, pale about the head, and listless. They may stop laying.
Treatment is required to break the breeding cycle of the pests. Removal of bedding, far from the range of the chickens to prevent reinfestation, then a spray like pyrethrin or permethrin behind laying boxes, in the cracks of the floor and walls, around window frames, in the seems of roosting bars and roofing, and every square inch between. Fresh bedding is added. You can apply a powdered permethrin like Insectrin Dust to the fresh bedding. Lastly, you'll want to powder the birds themselves. Wear a layer of clothing over your skin, gloves and a mask. Repeat the application weekly for a total of 3 times.
I also walk the property and spray common areas the chickens free-range and congregate. We have wild turkeys so we spray as a preventative measure.
You can use Diatomacious Earth but it doesn't work as quickly or on every type of pest. It works on soft bodied bugs, not those with an exoskeleton.
Scaly Leg Mites
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Poultry Lice
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Poultry Mites
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Lice and mites are species-specific. They don't want to live on you, your barn cat or dog.
Once everything and everyone is treated, you'll want to give them a dust bath. In a box or bowl wide enough for one bird to lay out put dirt, wood ash, and DE or Insectrin Dust. Keep the dust bath in a dry area. I like to add wood ash to the free range dust bath areas.
HOw do you protect them from predators?
People aren't the only ones that like a chicken dinner! Owls, dogs, Bobcats, raccoons, weasels, hawks, Opossums, snakes, coyotes, eagles, martins, mountain lions, bears, and probably a few I'm missing, will prey on chickens.
To protect your flock from such diverse predators is challenging. There are steps you can take, like burying fine gage hardware cloth a foot underground around the outside run and around the base of the coop, if it's possible a predator could dig under or through the floor. Bird netting over the top of the run will keep airborne predators from diving in. A small door on a timer can close in the flock at night, when many predators attack. Having a few shelters scattered around for free-ranging chickens to seek shelter can be helpful. A rooster will sound the alarm and fight for his ladies but he can only do so much.
* Lots more to share soon on this topic!
To protect your flock from such diverse predators is challenging. There are steps you can take, like burying fine gage hardware cloth a foot underground around the outside run and around the base of the coop, if it's possible a predator could dig under or through the floor. Bird netting over the top of the run will keep airborne predators from diving in. A small door on a timer can close in the flock at night, when many predators attack. Having a few shelters scattered around for free-ranging chickens to seek shelter can be helpful. A rooster will sound the alarm and fight for his ladies but he can only do so much.
* Lots more to share soon on this topic!
How Do you evaluate a chicken?
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* A detailed article is coming!
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WHy do chickens molt and lose their feathers?
* Stay tuned for more here!
Lance and Lorinda Barnes
North Woods Homestead, LLC
Priest River, Idaho
North Woods Homestead, LLC
Priest River, Idaho
Copyright 2010-2024 North Woods Homestead, LLC, all rights reserved.
All text and images are sole property of North Woods Homestead, LLC,
and cannot be used without written permission.
All text and images are sole property of North Woods Homestead, LLC,
and cannot be used without written permission.